I finally met a local Red Dao who took me in to live with her family for two days. With the help of locals, Sapa O’Chau (Shu Tan) who guided me and led me to stay in a village in Ta Phin, Sapa.
The Red Dao people originated from China and migrated to Vietnam starting around the 12th or 13th century and continuing until the early 20th century. The majority migrated into Vietnam during the Minh dynasty, due to drought, failed crops and the pressures of Feudalism in China.
Red Dao people mainly live in Cao Bang, Lang Son, Tuyen Quang, Ha Giang and Lao Cai. Nowadays, Ta Phin village has more than 700 Red Dao people.
It took us 2 hours with a bike and hiking up a narrow muddy trail into the mountains of Ta Phin, with beautiful scenes, cold air and farms. At the peak of this mountain there are about 200 homes of the Red Dao and Hmong people, mostly living off live stocks, farming and the rivers.
They use a small turbines to power their own homes with 1-2 light bulbs only and at times no lights during dry season. Also always having a fire going indoors for warmth and light.
Took us 30 more minutes to nearly reach the peak and I then met ‘Mama’, the elder in this part of the village also Man Mei’s mother in law. They both spoke very little English.
Finally, sweaty, breathless and tired we reach her home… Ta Phin mountains, Sapa. It was an old wooden house, which felt like a old chinese Kungfu movie set up.
I then met her husband, Wen Wei, he is 39. He greeted me with a smile, a bamboo smoke pipe and home made tea made of the open fire.
After tea, I step out to see the village, the sunsets here are amazing. This is my home for the next 2 days. The typical houses of the Red Dao (Yao) are rectangular and they have structures made of wood and bamboo.
This is the oldest daughter, preparing the wedding costume. This is the culture here. the women sit together daily stitching clothes that will be used for their wedding or daily wear. It takes nearly one year to finish it.
A Red Dao women stitching a costume in her home. She offered me some tea as it was raining and cold outside. We sat around a fire and they talked, I sat silently watching them.
She took me out for a walk around the valley, as she told me stories of the village, picked leaves which she later used to prepare a bath for me. An open giant clay pot where I needed to sit inside off, while the family watched me bath. It was embarrassing for me at the same time a new reality which I shared with them.
Living With The Red Dao Tribe | Vietnam
